SWANAGE "WALK"
Saturday 14. May
2005
Eight hopeful walkers in wet weather gear arrived at the station at the Norden
Park and Ride car park for the' Ethelberta ' walk back from Swanage along
the ridge via Ulwell Gap and Nine Barrow Down, following her donkey ride
to Corfe (Corvsgate) Castle. We were still hopeful as the rain got heavier
and we bought single tickets for the steam train journey to Swanage.
The train journey was splendid inspite of the rain. The track passes behind the village of Corfe Castle and is higher, so we had a prime view of the castle ruins on the mound and could look down on the old stone tiled roofs of the low cottages, covered at this time of the year with wysteria and clematis. The side of the railway line was a delight of fresh foliage and wild flowers, including purple orchids, moon daisies and cowslips. The rain enhanced the colours and the train travelled slowly enough to enable us to see everything as we passed. The occasional puffs of steam and the distinctive sound of the wheels rattling on the track were nostalgically evocative.
Swanage station was a bustle of activity as we made our way out into Station Road. On our way to the sea front we passed a bakery and went in to buy something to keep us warm! At the sea front we withstood the gale force winds to inspect the monument puporting to commemorate a victory of the Saxons over the Danes. In the novel, "The Hand of Ethelberta", Hardy describes Swanage thus: 'Knollsea was a seaside village lying snug within two headlands as between a finger and thumb.' As the rain was now horizontal and the place was anything but snug, and discretion being the better part ....we found a coffee shop and had hot drinks while we discussed plans.
After a break we set off up the hill to see West End Cottage, where the Hardys had lodged with Captain Masters for 8 months from July 1875. Because there was no railway yet at that time, the Hardys made the trip to Swanage by paddle steamer from Bournemouth. TH used West End Cottage and Captain Masters in the "Hand of Ethelberta" which he was writing at the time. The ceam washed cottage was set on the side of the hill overlooking the bay and just off one of the tracks which used to mark the transporting of the Purbeck stone down to the sea.
After a picnic huddled in the shelter on the sea front it was decided to abandon the walk and to stay in the town. We had an interesting visit to the Heritage Centre on the stone wharf which still bears the rails from the stone carriers. There is a short video of the history of the quarrying and of the lives of John Mowlem and George Burt who brought prosperity to Swanage. Braving the storm, we went along to the pier where the waves were hurling great clumps of seaweed on to the quayside. Instead of going out along the pier we ducked into an exhibition/museum showing photos and some memorabilia of Swanage as a port and a resort.
At 3:30, with no sign of the rain easing we rode back in the train and assembled in a tea shop in the village of Corfe Castle where the non-walkers joined us for tea and scones.
Inspite of the awful weather (which on my return, I found to be peculiar to Dorset on Saturday) and the curtailing of our walk, it was an enjoyable day. Our thanks go to John Pentney for organising it and for producing the information sheet to accompany the trip.
Cecilia
Hynes-Higman